Some claim this ad is sensationalist and violent, and shouldn't be shown to children. If anything I think it understates the accident itself because people who are cossetted in their 'safe' cars seem to have lost sight of the fact that accidents DO happen. They think that texting and general cellphone use whilst driving is OK because they think that they can multitask. They're wrong. Until this message gets across to people, and until the police and local authorities actually start penalising people for doing it, ads like this are the best shot of trying to get people to understand.
Yes, it's a re-post, but it's been 4 years since I posted it last, and given the sheer idiocy of drivers with their cellphones nowadays, I thought it was worth bringing up again.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Monday, November 25, 2013
The one-eyed monster
Come the darker commutes, come the people who are so lazy they can't even change a light bulb. You don't typically notice it until September time, but they're there. The one-eyed monsters - cars running on one sidelight and one full-beam. I've never really understood this. The drivers obviously know one light is out because they're trying to compensate by using the other light on high beam. Day after day, week after week I pass the same four or five cars like this. Why can't they stop at the car place (that they drive past every day, incidentally) and buy a bulb for less than the cost of a fast food lunch? It would take 5 minutes to fix the problem and they'd be able to see much better and wouldn't be pissing off all the other drivers on the road.
I think I know the answer to this. For a long time there was the myth of the unchangeable headlight bulb. "Oh you can't change the bulb - you need a whole new headlight" was the story. That might have been true for one model year of one Talbot made at some point in the 70's, but in all the cars I've worked on in the last 25 years, I've yet to see a single one with a 'sealed' headlight unit.
The modern equivalent, of course, is that "it's so difficult to change the bulb that you need the dealer to do it". When people say that, what they mean is "I'm too damn lazy to try to figure it out". Yes it might involve a scraped knuckle, or undoing a screw to move a piece of plastic out of the way. Yes you might get dirty hands, and yes, reaching around to get the bulb swapped over could be awkward but it's very do-able.
Let's put it like this: unless you've had to change the right side headlight bulb in a 1985 Audi ur-Quattro, you don't really have a leg to stand on in the "too difficult" debate. For the record, the air filter box had to come out to swap the bulb on that side. During manufacture, the box was put in before the engine so the lower bolt was only accessible from underneath the car with a very long ratchet wrench. In addition, the fuel injection system was bolted to the top of the filter cover, so that had to come off first. To get that off you had to loosen the injector rail and to loosen the injector rail you had to take off the cold-start injector and the rocker cover vapour scavenger hose. Once all that was done you still only had about a 30% change of being able to change the bulb. The only true solution was to take off the intake manifold too.
I think I know the answer to this. For a long time there was the myth of the unchangeable headlight bulb. "Oh you can't change the bulb - you need a whole new headlight" was the story. That might have been true for one model year of one Talbot made at some point in the 70's, but in all the cars I've worked on in the last 25 years, I've yet to see a single one with a 'sealed' headlight unit.
The modern equivalent, of course, is that "it's so difficult to change the bulb that you need the dealer to do it". When people say that, what they mean is "I'm too damn lazy to try to figure it out". Yes it might involve a scraped knuckle, or undoing a screw to move a piece of plastic out of the way. Yes you might get dirty hands, and yes, reaching around to get the bulb swapped over could be awkward but it's very do-able.
Let's put it like this: unless you've had to change the right side headlight bulb in a 1985 Audi ur-Quattro, you don't really have a leg to stand on in the "too difficult" debate. For the record, the air filter box had to come out to swap the bulb on that side. During manufacture, the box was put in before the engine so the lower bolt was only accessible from underneath the car with a very long ratchet wrench. In addition, the fuel injection system was bolted to the top of the filter cover, so that had to come off first. To get that off you had to loosen the injector rail and to loosen the injector rail you had to take off the cold-start injector and the rocker cover vapour scavenger hose. Once all that was done you still only had about a 30% change of being able to change the bulb. The only true solution was to take off the intake manifold too.
Monday, November 18, 2013
Diminished value
Regular readers might remember the unfortunate circumstances surrounding my new car back in the summer. Three weeks after taking delivery of it, a woman who was paying more attention to the kids in the back of her minivan than she was to - you know - driving, ran into me causing a wreck. It was a fixable wreck, fortunately, but about the biggest issue on my mind at the time was this : the CarFax report for my car was now going to reflect an accident, and thus when I eventually come to sell or trade it, it's going to be worth less.
So I did a little research and there's a term used by the insurance companies called 'diminished value' or 'diminishment of value'. It reflects what the insurance company deems to be the difference in value of the car before and after the accident. Ie. when you go to sell it - that loss you make should be covered by a diminished value claim.
I'm not sure what it's like in Europe - it's been a decade since I lived there - but in the US it's only law in certain states that the insurance companies pay out these sorts of claims. Where I live, it's not law, so I figured I'd ask, expecting to get nothing. I called the woman's insurance company right up front and asked about it and they said they'd investigate a diminished value claim once all the repairs had been made and I was back in my vehicle. True to their word, a week after my car was returned to me, I had a call and they said they were processing the claim, despite not being legally obliged to do so. I think in my case it was likely because the car was essentially brand new. Either way, they told me it would be a percentage of the cost of the repair.
The week after that, they called me again and gave me the valuation. I'm not going to tell you what it was, but I'm more than happy with it and it's four times what I was expecting once I discovered they were likely to fill the claim. I had to sign a release, meaning that I cannot pursue them for any more damages based on this particular accident and claim, but that's standard stuff.
So what did I learn? Well at one point in the process I did actually speak to a lawyer to ask if it was worth pursuing the diminished value claim, and he advised me not to bother because it would be an uphill battle in this state. That's why I was prepared to get nothing, so when I did get a payment, I was more than happy.
I feel at this point I really ought to mention the insurance company given that they get nothing but a bad reputation : State Farm. In my case they dealt with me fairly and politely and didn't quibble about anything. I didn't particularly want any of this to happen, but in the end, it all appears to have worked out nicely. In reality, that's all you want from an insurance claim.
So I did a little research and there's a term used by the insurance companies called 'diminished value' or 'diminishment of value'. It reflects what the insurance company deems to be the difference in value of the car before and after the accident. Ie. when you go to sell it - that loss you make should be covered by a diminished value claim.
I'm not sure what it's like in Europe - it's been a decade since I lived there - but in the US it's only law in certain states that the insurance companies pay out these sorts of claims. Where I live, it's not law, so I figured I'd ask, expecting to get nothing. I called the woman's insurance company right up front and asked about it and they said they'd investigate a diminished value claim once all the repairs had been made and I was back in my vehicle. True to their word, a week after my car was returned to me, I had a call and they said they were processing the claim, despite not being legally obliged to do so. I think in my case it was likely because the car was essentially brand new. Either way, they told me it would be a percentage of the cost of the repair.
The week after that, they called me again and gave me the valuation. I'm not going to tell you what it was, but I'm more than happy with it and it's four times what I was expecting once I discovered they were likely to fill the claim. I had to sign a release, meaning that I cannot pursue them for any more damages based on this particular accident and claim, but that's standard stuff.
So what did I learn? Well at one point in the process I did actually speak to a lawyer to ask if it was worth pursuing the diminished value claim, and he advised me not to bother because it would be an uphill battle in this state. That's why I was prepared to get nothing, so when I did get a payment, I was more than happy.
I feel at this point I really ought to mention the insurance company given that they get nothing but a bad reputation : State Farm. In my case they dealt with me fairly and politely and didn't quibble about anything. I didn't particularly want any of this to happen, but in the end, it all appears to have worked out nicely. In reality, that's all you want from an insurance claim.
Monday, November 11, 2013
Guest post : things you must know while selecting an engine oil for your car.
While choosing engine oil for your car, there are some things that you must know. These are detailed below.
What type of oil you have been using
• In case you have an old car that has been running on single-weight oil for a long time, it will have built up some sludge as single-weight oil does not have detergents in them.
• If you suddenly change to multi-viscosity oil, the detergent in it will clean and release all that sludge in your car engine and the gook will begin to slosh and really foul everything up.
• Therefore, it would be better to continue using the same single-weight oil unless you are ready to first have your engine cleaned before switching to multi-viscosity oil. When switching, it’s good to get a competent mechanic to do it. Otherwise, your car’s engine will be taken apart during cleaning and then reassembled poorly and problems will begin.
• Lastly, as long as your car engine is running well, it’s ideal to stick to the old oil you have been using.
How old is your car oil? How many kilometers have you driven it?
• If your engine has been running for many miles on 30-40 single-weight oil, multi-weight oil is not going to be adequately thick to lubricate the worn engine parts which will have become smaller due to the tear creating wide gaps between them.
• To keep these gaps well lubricated, switch to heavier single oil as you engine becomes older and begins to run burn up oil more quickly. For example, if you have been operating on a 30-weight oil, change to a 40 weight especially during the summer when oil seems to thin out first.
Check out your manufacturer engine manual
• While choosing engine oil for your car, make sure to select one of the brands that the user manual recommends. This is particular so if your car is relatively new and has not had a lot of repairs. The manufacturer knows what is best for the engine they manufacture.
• Also note that using anything else other than the recommended oil may invalidate your new car warranty.
The weather conditions
• In case you live in a place where there are sharp changes in temperature, you should consider using multi-weight engine oil since it covers a wide range of temperature. You should ensure that you consult the viscosity charge to ensure that the oil you choose will flow properly even under extreme conditions.
Choice between synthetic and mineral oil
• One of the decisions that a driver is faced with while choosing engine oil is whether to use mineral or synthetic oil.
• Just to explain, mineral oil is the one that comes from clude oil and is manufactured at oil refineries. This type of oil is the oldest and it’s less expensive as compared to mineral oil.
• On the other hand, synthetic oil is more expensive because the chemical process through which they are manufactured is costly but they are beneficial since they allow for more miles to be driven before oil can be changed. It also more stable under high and low temperature as compared to synthetic oil.
It’s important to note that your driver plays a significant role while it comes to choosing the right oil for your car. Make sure your driver is competent and licensed by calling the dvla phone number.
What type of oil you have been using
• In case you have an old car that has been running on single-weight oil for a long time, it will have built up some sludge as single-weight oil does not have detergents in them.
• If you suddenly change to multi-viscosity oil, the detergent in it will clean and release all that sludge in your car engine and the gook will begin to slosh and really foul everything up.
• Therefore, it would be better to continue using the same single-weight oil unless you are ready to first have your engine cleaned before switching to multi-viscosity oil. When switching, it’s good to get a competent mechanic to do it. Otherwise, your car’s engine will be taken apart during cleaning and then reassembled poorly and problems will begin.
• Lastly, as long as your car engine is running well, it’s ideal to stick to the old oil you have been using.
How old is your car oil? How many kilometers have you driven it?
• If your engine has been running for many miles on 30-40 single-weight oil, multi-weight oil is not going to be adequately thick to lubricate the worn engine parts which will have become smaller due to the tear creating wide gaps between them.
• To keep these gaps well lubricated, switch to heavier single oil as you engine becomes older and begins to run burn up oil more quickly. For example, if you have been operating on a 30-weight oil, change to a 40 weight especially during the summer when oil seems to thin out first.
Check out your manufacturer engine manual
• While choosing engine oil for your car, make sure to select one of the brands that the user manual recommends. This is particular so if your car is relatively new and has not had a lot of repairs. The manufacturer knows what is best for the engine they manufacture.
• Also note that using anything else other than the recommended oil may invalidate your new car warranty.
The weather conditions
• In case you live in a place where there are sharp changes in temperature, you should consider using multi-weight engine oil since it covers a wide range of temperature. You should ensure that you consult the viscosity charge to ensure that the oil you choose will flow properly even under extreme conditions.
Choice between synthetic and mineral oil
• One of the decisions that a driver is faced with while choosing engine oil is whether to use mineral or synthetic oil.
• Just to explain, mineral oil is the one that comes from clude oil and is manufactured at oil refineries. This type of oil is the oldest and it’s less expensive as compared to mineral oil.
• On the other hand, synthetic oil is more expensive because the chemical process through which they are manufactured is costly but they are beneficial since they allow for more miles to be driven before oil can be changed. It also more stable under high and low temperature as compared to synthetic oil.
It’s important to note that your driver plays a significant role while it comes to choosing the right oil for your car. Make sure your driver is competent and licensed by calling the dvla phone number.
Monday, November 4, 2013
When public transport just works.
A couple of weeks ago I talked about how pedestrianising the center of the Hague has made a tremendous difference to the place. This week I want to talk about abandoning cars in favour of public transport. If we go to the UK, we always rent a car. For most other countries we visit, my wife and I tend to rely on public transport and Holland is no different. We made sure we had one of their OV Chipkaarts each (like the Oyster card in the UK) and kept them topped up, and just used them on all forms of public transport. Tap on, tap off. Buses, trams, trains. Simple. The Dutch public transport network is so vast that it's actually difficult to find anywhere in the country that you can't get to whilst using it. So much so that I just expect it to work now. When we pick a tourist attraction to visit, or some friends to see, I expect to be able to get there using public transport. In Holland, there's a couple of smartphone apps (9292 and NS) that help plan routes and they're always accurate. The NS (national railways) app is brilliant because it keeps you up-to-date on timetable changes and delays. The trains typically run every 12 minutes. Trams every 6 to 7 and buses every 10 to 15 minutes.
In the UK by comparison, the roads are choked with cars, so buses are a waste of time. The trains run so infrequently that they're crowded, miserable hell-holes to be in, and there are no trams. London of course has the tube, which is fantastic if not a little expensive. But in the long run, I'd still opt for a car in England.
Hong Kong has a vast subway system, as does Singapore, making both those regions eminently accessible to anyone without a car too. France has a great subway system around Paris and the nationwide TGV high speed trains. Japan has the admittedly overcrowded subways and bullet trains. Spain has TGVs.
Back home in America? Car crazy, baby. Our nearest bus stop is only 2 minutes away - which is great - but the buses run every 30 minutes. ie. they're pointless. Then nearest tram is only two miles away by bus, but then you've got the 30 minute bus schedule to contend with and the trams only run every 15 minutes. There is a train, somewhere. I think. I hear it every now and then.
Would I give up my car for public transport? Over here in the US, no way. In France, maybe. In Holland probably. In the UK, not ever. Ideally I suspect the middle ground is less consumption and materialism. A family could likely get along with a single car and reliance on public transport in most European countries. In the US an the UK, two cars or more per family are almost a requirement. In the far east, bicycles, mopeds, buses and trains would seem to be more prevalent.
So next time you travel, think twice before booking that rental car - there might be a better option.
In the UK by comparison, the roads are choked with cars, so buses are a waste of time. The trains run so infrequently that they're crowded, miserable hell-holes to be in, and there are no trams. London of course has the tube, which is fantastic if not a little expensive. But in the long run, I'd still opt for a car in England.
Hong Kong has a vast subway system, as does Singapore, making both those regions eminently accessible to anyone without a car too. France has a great subway system around Paris and the nationwide TGV high speed trains. Japan has the admittedly overcrowded subways and bullet trains. Spain has TGVs.
Back home in America? Car crazy, baby. Our nearest bus stop is only 2 minutes away - which is great - but the buses run every 30 minutes. ie. they're pointless. Then nearest tram is only two miles away by bus, but then you've got the 30 minute bus schedule to contend with and the trams only run every 15 minutes. There is a train, somewhere. I think. I hear it every now and then.
Would I give up my car for public transport? Over here in the US, no way. In France, maybe. In Holland probably. In the UK, not ever. Ideally I suspect the middle ground is less consumption and materialism. A family could likely get along with a single car and reliance on public transport in most European countries. In the US an the UK, two cars or more per family are almost a requirement. In the far east, bicycles, mopeds, buses and trains would seem to be more prevalent.
So next time you travel, think twice before booking that rental car - there might be a better option.
Monday, October 28, 2013
UK Driving Test Tips
Taking your driving test can be an intimidating experience – there’s so much to think about, and you’ll naturally be keen to pass so you can buy a used car (or even a new one if you’re very lucky) and finally get on the road. Plus you might well be worried about the potential expense and embarrassment that will come if you fail and end up having to take your test again…
Don’t fret – here’s some tips on how to pass your test first time.
1. Be certain that you’re ready… When you’re learning to drive, you’ll finds there’s no shortage of people with an opinion on when exactly you should take your test, but, ultimately, that decision lies with you. Everyone learns at a different speed, so don’t measure yourself against others – book your test only when you feel totally ready to take the plunge.
2. …And don’t let worries or nerves get to you It’s natural to feel a little anxious about taking your test, but listening to horror stories about what can go wrong won’t help. Focus on channelling your energy into performing at your best instead.
3. Swot up Don’t just forget all that valuable stuff you learned for your theory test the moment you pass it; a good understanding of the Highway Code sets you in good stead, so keep reminding yourself of the rules of the road and why they’re in place as you continue to learn to drive.
4. Practise on all types of road and in all conditions We all know full well that the British weather can be unpredictable, so you need to be ready for anything! Driving on different types of road in varying conditions will mean you’ll be as prepared as possible.
5. Do your research Check out the area around the test centre on Google Maps Street View. There’s no way to tell exactly what direction and how far your examiner will actually take you on the test, but having an overview of what’s around the corner – whether that be a roundabout, concealed entrance or give way line – could give you an advantage.
6. Take a ‘mock test’ Book a driving lesson close to your test date (even on the same day if you’d like), and see if it’s possible for a different instructor to give you a ‘mock test’ in the area surrounding the test centre. Just like a mock exam, it’s a good way to prepare for what’s to come.
7. Remember that you don’t have to tell everyone that you’re taking your test The more people that know you’re taking your test, the more pressure you’ll feel to succeed. You’re under no obligation to tell any of your friends or family that you’re taking your driving test, so if you’d rather keep it to yourself, do!
8. Keep cool It’s inevitable that you’ll encounter something unexpected during your test, whether it’s a problem with your car or another motorist getting in your way. Is something goes wrong, think logically and don’t panic – if you’ve studied and practised enough, you’ll know how best to deal with any situation. And remember that something going wrong won’t necessarily mean that you’ll fail your test as long as you handle whatever it is in a responsible and sensible way.
This post was produced by Molly who works on behalf of Used Car Dealership The Car People.co.uk. They are based in Manchester, Sheffield and Wakefield and love working in a way that is hassle free for every customer.
Don’t fret – here’s some tips on how to pass your test first time.
1. Be certain that you’re ready… When you’re learning to drive, you’ll finds there’s no shortage of people with an opinion on when exactly you should take your test, but, ultimately, that decision lies with you. Everyone learns at a different speed, so don’t measure yourself against others – book your test only when you feel totally ready to take the plunge.
2. …And don’t let worries or nerves get to you It’s natural to feel a little anxious about taking your test, but listening to horror stories about what can go wrong won’t help. Focus on channelling your energy into performing at your best instead.
3. Swot up Don’t just forget all that valuable stuff you learned for your theory test the moment you pass it; a good understanding of the Highway Code sets you in good stead, so keep reminding yourself of the rules of the road and why they’re in place as you continue to learn to drive.
4. Practise on all types of road and in all conditions We all know full well that the British weather can be unpredictable, so you need to be ready for anything! Driving on different types of road in varying conditions will mean you’ll be as prepared as possible.
5. Do your research Check out the area around the test centre on Google Maps Street View. There’s no way to tell exactly what direction and how far your examiner will actually take you on the test, but having an overview of what’s around the corner – whether that be a roundabout, concealed entrance or give way line – could give you an advantage.
6. Take a ‘mock test’ Book a driving lesson close to your test date (even on the same day if you’d like), and see if it’s possible for a different instructor to give you a ‘mock test’ in the area surrounding the test centre. Just like a mock exam, it’s a good way to prepare for what’s to come.
7. Remember that you don’t have to tell everyone that you’re taking your test The more people that know you’re taking your test, the more pressure you’ll feel to succeed. You’re under no obligation to tell any of your friends or family that you’re taking your driving test, so if you’d rather keep it to yourself, do!
8. Keep cool It’s inevitable that you’ll encounter something unexpected during your test, whether it’s a problem with your car or another motorist getting in your way. Is something goes wrong, think logically and don’t panic – if you’ve studied and practised enough, you’ll know how best to deal with any situation. And remember that something going wrong won’t necessarily mean that you’ll fail your test as long as you handle whatever it is in a responsible and sensible way.
This post was produced by Molly who works on behalf of Used Car Dealership The Car People.co.uk. They are based in Manchester, Sheffield and Wakefield and love working in a way that is hassle free for every customer.
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